Munich

Well folks...about to hop a train to Paris, and I thought I'd give you all a little update!

So Saturday Jen arrived back in Munich, and we just hung out in the apartment chatting and eating. Sunday Jen and I went for a walk in the woods, which was wonderful! (Felt so good to be walking like that again!)

Monday was probably my favorite day since the end of the Camino. Jen and I spent about 9 hours at Therme Erding...a nude spa! It was so increadible! We were a little nervous at first, but you get used to everyone being naked fairly quickly. There were a million different kind of dry saunas including one that baked fresh bread, a wet sauna that was infused with eucalyptus, and a star gazing one. We got salt scrubs, honey peels, and yogurt masks. We also got to tan a bit, stand under waterfalls in "stone henge" swim in the jetted pool, and drink champagne at the naked pool bar! It was an AMAZING day!

Tuesday was also very lovely, because I got to meet up with my Camino friend Anna, from Australia. We did a lot of walking around Munich...saw a bit of the English Gardens, ate a pretzel, and just enjoyed eachothers company. On Wednesday I spent the day in Dachau which is the site of the first concentration camp. It was a tough visit, but something I felt I had to do while in Germany. I choked back tears all day, and it started as soon as I stepped through the gate that read "ARBEIT MACHT FREI" which means "work makes you free". They have restored some of the original buildings, but I couldn't imagine what it would have looked like with the thirty-some bunkers that used to be there. Now they are just large rectangular sections each marked with a number. The one bunker that we were able to walk through was horrifying. Just imagining the hundreds of starving and sick people shoved into this tiny hall of bunks. I won't put the word bed in there, because they were basically just wooden stalls. It was really creepy to walk through the crematorium (sp?). We were walked through first where the people were told to take off their clothes in order for them to "shower", then into the room marked "showers" that was actually an airtight space that was filled with poisonous gas once the doors were shut. That room opened up into another square room where bodies were dragged to await their cremation. The actual crematorium was these 3 or 4 huge ovens that would burn 4-5 bodies at once. Wow. It was a very moving day.

Onto more pleasant things...Hung out with Jen and Vesta Wednesday night and all day Thursday, and because of some concerns about getting in trouble with their landlord, I found another place to stay Thursday night. I signed up for this thing called couchsurfing which is the coolest idea ever! Basically it is a HUGE community of people online who offer a couch or a peice of floor to travellers who need a place to stay. I stayed with an awesome girl Marie, who actually ended up inviting me to stay Friday night as well. So, I wandered around town yesterday, and had a chick flick night last night! I was expecting to catch a 7:30am train to Paris, but the connecting train was sold out, so I'm out on a 10:30 train, that actually gets there at the same time anyway!

Tonight I am staying at Aloha Hostel, tomorrow I am staying at St. Christopher's, and then Monday and Tuesday night I am spending at a girl's place named Rosa. Then, it is back to the States, and home to Chicago to see my man!

The Week after...

Well, it has been about a week since I last posted anything. I left Santiago for Madrid last Saturday, arrived at the airport, bought myself a 3 day pass on the metra, hopped on and off about 3 trains, and called my cousin Curry when I arrived. Apparently there was some confusion about my arrival, and she had sent me to her friend's house because she thought I was arriving the night before...unfortunately I didn't get her email before I left, so she was apologetic and told me her friend would be right there. I must say that since the Camino I am much more layed back when it comes to last minute changes like this. I just go with the flow!

So her 18 year old friend Andreas picked me up and escorted me back to his place. He totally made me feel at home, and I just chilled until Curry arrived. She felt so bad, but I couldn't stress enough that it was NO BIG DEAL! We hung out, went out for some Tapas, and ended up staying up till 3am (actually they stayed up till about 5!)! The best part was that we didn't actually wake up until 2pm!!!!! I'm pretty sure the last time I did that I was severely ill! Oh and I forgot to mention that Andreas was a total sweetie and let me sleep in his twin bed! Curry was supposed to get the couch, but his roomate ended up never leaving the tv! I felt so bad when they told me how cold it was, but they assured me that I was the guest and there was no way I was sleeping on the floor!

Andreas then helped me get a ticket for the same Bullfight they were seeing that day at 5:30pm. I couldn't believe it! I hadn't planned on it, but when in Madrid... So we went off to meet some of Curry's flat-mates at the arena, and it was pretty surreal! The first fight was awful and made Curry and I wonder whether or not we would make it through the whole evening! Turns out that the first Matador was just really bad! We also got to see a few things that rarely happen: 1. A bull jumped over the guard railing 2. 2 horses were knocked completely on their sides by bulls 3. 2 bulls were set free (they won!). The only 2 things missing was a bulls ear being cut off and given to an audience member, and a matador getting thrown across the arena.

The next day Curry took me around for a bit of sight seeing where we packed sandwiches and ate lunch by a fountain. We hung out at Andreas' apartment and he cooked spanish tortilla on my request!

Tuesday was supposed to be my big touristy day since Curry was at school all day, but it ended up being cold and rainy. I did make it to the Museo de Prado which was fabulous, and did a little walking around. That night Andreas, Curry and I became much closer and gave blood at the nearest hospital. This was a first for Curry and I, but we did alright (besides the nurses yelling at Curry to keep her eyes open!). Andreas then cooked us the most enormous burgers I've ever seen! We needed them too, becuase even though we were told not to have alcohol for 3 hours Curry and I both had a glass of wine (to which after about 4 sips I was drunk)!

Wednesday morning I said goodbye to Curry and headed for the airport. On the train I realized I had forgotten the gorgeous brand new jewelry I had bought on Curry's desk and I didn't have enough time to go back! (CURRY...I HOPE YOU CAN MAIL THEM TO ME!)

Everything went smoothly on the flight to Frankfurt, and when i arrived I looked for the Train station. Only I found out from the info desk that the ticket I had was from the main airport which was an hour and a half bus ride away! The man told me that there was no way i was going to make my train, but that there was another one only a half an hour afterwords. I reminded myself of my new philosophy on accepting last minute changes, and just said whatever happens happens.

Sitting on the bus waiting for it to leave I recognized a woman that I had noticed at the luggage carrousel and I thought she looked familiar. I realized that she was the woman who had checked me in in St Jean Pied de Port on her birthday! I didn't get a chance to talk to her until the bus arrived at the station, but it was wonderful to just say hi and connect with someone who knew what I had just gone through!

I arrived at the track 2 minutes before my original train arrived! See...all you gotta do is go with the flow and all will work out! So I had a 3 1/2 hour train ride to Munich, and once there had to make my way to the U Bahn 2 to get to Jen's place. At the ticket machine I was very confused as I wanted to by a multiple trip ticket but couldn't figure it out. This creepy guy came over and talked to me for a bit until I told him I had to go check if the counters were open upstairs. I eventually just came back down as i knew everything was closed (it was 11pm) and bought a 1 trip ticket. I got on the train and got off at the correct stop where I pretty much found the apartment right away (though Jen told me the pizza place was on my right, when it was actually on my left...lol). Vesta let me in and has been wonderful putting up with my lazy ass on her couch for the past 2 days! Jen has been in Italy doing her scubadiving certification and will arrive back here tomorrow morning. Sheesh! What a post! Well...until the next post...

Leaving Santiago...

So today officially ends the Camino portion of my trip. And still...a little in shock that I just did it. Last night was the first night I really cried in quite a while. It is really strange to have a daily ritual just ripped right out from underneath you. My body craves being on it´s feet, and I'm glad! Although yesterday really brought home how tired I´ve been. I fell asleep for 3 hours yesterday afternoon. Yikes!

The Camino taught me so much, and I am SO BLESSED to have been able to experience something like this in my lifetime. I was touched by so many pilgrims: Noel from Quebec, Courtney from California, Ginny from uh well she's moving to Florida, Claire from near Boston, Anna and Helen from Perth, Myrle from Vancouver, Paola from Barcelona (though an Aussie), and most of all my good friend Tash, from South Africa. You really do create really special bonds on this journey. I met so many others as well...too many to name, but this handful opened my eyes a lot over the course of 40 days. I learned a lot about myself, and certain things that I was not aware of before have all been worked out. I had so much time to think, and pray, and one of the biggest things I learned is that you really have to take things one day at a time, and not worry or rush through things. I'm really hoping I can bring the things that I've learned into my every day life when I return to Chicago.

The toughest thing for me since I arrived here in Santiago is being away from Justin. Although I missed him a ton while on the journey, I was doing something I really needed to do for myself, and now that the journey is finished I am homesick for him. Not constantly doing something (though that means something completely different on the Camino...not like in a big city) has really been rough. Last night I cried as I hung up the phone, and although I know I will have a lot of fun over the next 2 1/2 weeks, I can't wait to jump into his arms when I get back.

So, I will post a little on my adventures in Madrid, Munich and Paris over the next two weeks, but nothing in comparisson to The Camino.

Much love to all...and thank you!

800km in 40 days

I made it to Santiago! I use the exclamation point, but I´m not really sure it´s appropriate for how I feel. In fact, I don´t really know how I feel. Yesterday I was quite emotional walking through the Eucalyptus woods, and today when I saw the Santiago sign on the road, I felt sick to my stomach, and wanted to run the other way. But, now that I´m here, it´s lovely seeing old pilgrim friends!

I stayed the last 2 nights in pensiones with my Australian friend Paola which was a lovely change from the Albergues, and we walked into the city thismorning together. I also met up with my friends Anna and Helen and had lunch, and am about to meet up with them in a bit. Tomorrow I get to just hang out in the city, and Thursday I´m taking the bus out to Finisterre (The end of the earth) to meet Tash, who started walking today (it will take her 3 days to walk there). So, more to come on exactly how I feel about this whole thing being over...need some time to chew on it all.

Saturday it´s off to Madrid to visit my cousing Curry, and then in a week or so it´s off to Germany to chill with my good friend Jen!

Galacia

For the past few days I have been walking through Galacia. Now, I had the knowledge that this part was known to be rainy, but what I didn´t know was that it was litterally like walking through a rain forest! Today especially. The temperature is cool, but VERY humid! It didn´t RAIN really, but it was like being in a constant mist all day. If you´ve ever been to an indoor raiforest exibit at a zoo, you´ve probably experienced a little part of what I went through today.

Dissapointed, because I was already doing a longer day, and then I got to the Albergue I was planning on staying in, and they were full. AAARRGH! So, I charged on to the next town 3km away. Just need some rest now. I have 3 short days left: 16km, 14km and 10km. I very well could have done it in 2, but I wanted to have a short walk the day I arrive in Santiago.

Only 100km left...

So, it´s been a while since I´ve been able to sit at a computer for a long period of time and it´s about time for an update.

I last left you in Hospital de Orbigo on Day 26...

Day 27. Murias de Rechivaldo:

Met a lovely woman about my age on the top of this crest with a beautiful cart with fruit, pastries and beverages for the pilgrims by donation. She had walked the Camino last year, and when she returned home to Barcelona decided that the city was too busy, and all about the sell sell sell and buy buy buy. So she packed up and moved to a tiny village along the Camino to care for Pilgrims! This was awesome, but definitely made me think about what it is going to be like trying to get readjusted to life in a big city. PLUS...stayed in a lovely Albergue where there were only 4 of us!

Day 28. Foncebadon:

Superb walk up a mountain with beautiful views passing all sorts of old ancient villages. Got to the first crest and there was a red swing hanging from a strong tree...JUST FOR ME!!! So I sat and had a water break on the swing-LOVELY! Village lined with horses, goats, dogs, and of course, cats. Tiny abandoned village, but the most lovely albergue that made their own goat yogurt and honey which I was more than happy to partake of! Today marked the end of my 4th week!

Day 29. Molineseca:

Gorgeous walk today as well! Up a little more, with the enormous iron cross standing at the crest. Got to see the mist rise over the mountains today. Got the ULTIMATE compliment today... "You sure look relaxed!" This was awesome to hear, because I DID NOT come on the Camino to rush through my day. I take my time! Otherwise I would not make it. I would end up hurting myself!

Day 30. Cacabelos:

Was able to help out my South African friend Tash today. She ran into a nasty snag and had not even enough money for the next 2 days. I gave her 100€ and told her it will work out. We walked the last 7km together, and about 4km before Cacabelos walked by this HUGE fountain, and I could not pass up the chance to run through! Tash and I took our bags off, and ran beneath what felt like a waterfall! So lovely though to be like children once and a while!

Day 31. Trabadelo:

Had a leisurely day today...layed on the couch and watched Spanish TV...hahaha... walked mostly along the highway, but underneath this huge expressway on STILTS through the mountains! Reminded me of Hawaii! I met a French-Canadian named Adelle, and we cooked a lovely dinner together.

Day 32. O Cebreiro:

Tash sorted out her money issues! So she handed me my 100€ with a huge grin on her face, so glad to have worked everything out! Climbed another massive mountain today and am staying right on top. I arrived just before the rain hit...what good timing! Drank tea, as I was trying to ward off a cold that I felt coming on. Tash, Myrle (63 year old woman from Vancouver) and I made dinner together and had wine and chocolate as well.

Day 33. Triacastela:

The cold hit me like a ton of bricks! I woke up last night with a fever, and threw everything off of me. Stopped in every town today to drink juice and water, and use the lou. Could not stay positive. BUT found and Albergue that had a BATH TUB! And although I was hesitant at first, I jumped right into a STEAMING bath and soaked for 20 minutes! Made chicken soup and went to the Pharmacy...here´s hoping!

THE LESSON FOR DAY 33: Shit!

Sometimes you have to go through shit, other times you are able to avoid the shit, and sometimes you choose to go through shit because it´s faster!

This lesson was a mirror image: my thoughts, and the actual cow shit that was EVERYWHERE!

Day 34. Sarria:

That cold medicine must have been strong! I was able to breathe through my nose again! Had a beautiful (though long) walk today. Gorgeous tree covered lanes through old villages.

Day 35. Portomarín:

Today was my day to be a child again. I walked the Camino with the heart of a young girl today. I walked slowly, and would stop to pet a dog, or to coo a horse. I would make up stories about where streams led, and would pretend there was some royal wedding taking place in a Chapel in the distance. I tried stepping only on stones and avoiding the earth. I flew down the lane with my arms out like a plane. I ate some chocolate. I had so much fun, I realized that I didn´t really take any breaks! But, I was doddling so much that it took me just as long as if I HAD taken breaks! What a day!

2 in a row!

How lucky I was to get reccomendations on the Albergue yesterday, and today! Albergue San Miguel in Hospital de Orbigo is so lovely! Again, lots of open air, but you walk in and in the sitting area there is an eisle, board, paint, and paintbrushes below a sign that says: ¨para ti¨ or ¨for you¨! How wonderful! I spent the afternoon painting an acrylic of the meseta...a lovely wheat field with the camino stretching between it...yay! The beds are wonderful, and I had a lovely lunch of leftovers and a great simple dinner of rice with zuccini and mushrooms. Tomorrow I may walk only the 16km to Astorga, or I may go on to the next smaller town. The feet will tell me how far to go! Rush rush rush...that seems to be a lot of people´s mentality here...I have to remind myself constantly that there IS no rush! I have people passing me all day long, and that´s OK. I get to my destination, and there is ALWAYS a bed!

If I can give you all any advice for the real world, it would be to stop rushing. Don´t be in a hurry all the time, and take the time to actually see the things that are happening around you.