2 in a row!

How lucky I was to get reccomendations on the Albergue yesterday, and today! Albergue San Miguel in Hospital de Orbigo is so lovely! Again, lots of open air, but you walk in and in the sitting area there is an eisle, board, paint, and paintbrushes below a sign that says: ¨para ti¨ or ¨for you¨! How wonderful! I spent the afternoon painting an acrylic of the meseta...a lovely wheat field with the camino stretching between it...yay! The beds are wonderful, and I had a lovely lunch of leftovers and a great simple dinner of rice with zuccini and mushrooms. Tomorrow I may walk only the 16km to Astorga, or I may go on to the next smaller town. The feet will tell me how far to go! Rush rush rush...that seems to be a lot of people´s mentality here...I have to remind myself constantly that there IS no rush! I have people passing me all day long, and that´s OK. I get to my destination, and there is ALWAYS a bed!

If I can give you all any advice for the real world, it would be to stop rushing. Don´t be in a hurry all the time, and take the time to actually see the things that are happening around you.

500 down, 300 to go!

Haven´t really been around the internet for a few days, so let´s see if I can remember the last few days for you...

After Sahagun (last post), I made my way to El Burgo Ranero, where I met my Australians Anna and Helen, as well as Tash! This Albergue was kinda crazy with what seemed as Nazi American women as our hospitaleros, but it was by donation, and they had a kitchen so we made a feast for dinner. The next day I walked about 25km to some town I don´t remember, but they did have a lovely Albergue with a wonderful courtyard and AWESOME showers. PLUS not many pilgrims! Anna, Helen and I went in search of something to eat, but there was nothing open except a panederia where we found tuna empeñadas (sp?). I had rice in my bag, so we cooked rice with some veggie stock, and had our empañadas with it. Yesterday was a short 12-14km into León which was BEAUTIFUL! I was surprised how much I enjoyed it, but I guess when you aren´t completely bagged from the walk, and arrive at 11am, it works to your advantage. The Cathedral was beautiful! Today I walked about 21km to Mazarife and am staying in this really cozy Albergue built like a typical spanish house with a courtyard in the middle, and a lot of open air spaces. Tash, Anna, Helen and I have our own room which is fabulous...we get to draw on the wall...which is what I plan on doing after I write this, and we also made another enormous feast for lunch accompanied by wine, which is why it is taking me so damn long to write this post! I think I may lay in the hammock later or swim in the pool!

I can´t believe i´m almost 2/3 of the way finished! I´ve walked over 500km and have a little less than 300km to go! Crazy! I still have to conquer 2 more gigantic mountains before Santiago, but I´m sure I´ll do just fine!

Just Like That!

Today was a hell of a lot better than yesterday. I did somewhere between 22 and 24km, and when I arrived, at the reception they gave me a nice cold glass of water, and after showing me my bed brought me a plate of Paella! Best day ever! I´m sure I´ll say that a lot. But truly, love this Albergue, and also had some Australian friends that I met last night that greeted me as well. From bad to good, just like that!

Tough Day

So today marks the half-way point. I don´t know how I feel about that. It was a rough start to the day today. The first day that I really felt lathargic, and no motivation to get going. Once I did get started though, the first bit was ok...maybe the first 2km, but after that we were on a 15km path of this rocky gravel road, that was also infested with gnats...or some kind of very small flying bug. I found Tash along the way, and took a break for some food and to shed some clothes as it was getting hot. Started out again, and was having a very hard time keeping my "ZEN" about the bugs. I finally came up with a way to keep myself calm, and the bugs at a distance. I kept my buff in my hand and waved it back and forth infront of my face the whole day! I´ve also been having a lot of pain in the ball of my left foot. Wasn´t as bad today, but still pretty sore. All of those things plus the heat was too much for me today. The only thing keeping me going was the fact that the next town´s albergue had a swimming pool! I arrived here, put my stuff down by my bunk, and headed out back. So lovely to sit in the sun after a dip in a cold pool. For those of you from the Kootenays it was similar temperature to Kootenay Lake. But so lovely after a long hot walk! So, I still stay positive regardless of my negative morning! I´ve walked 20 days and I have 20 more to go. Here´goes!

Speed and Size

I realize that everyone has a different pace, for whatever reason, be it leg size or just pure hurry. I have been blessed with the gift of patience on this trip. I´m not usually the most patient person, but on this journey I have learned great patience. I am stunned at the number of people who rush by me every day. In the beginning, even though I was going fairly slow I still was waking up hours before dawn and making my way in the dark to insure I had a bed for the night. My mentality has changed. 1: if I walk in the dark in the early morning I have a high chance of tripping on something and hurting myself, or getting lost because of non-visable way-markers. 2: the Camino will always take care of me...if there is not a bed at one, there will be somewhere. There is not point in worrying. 3: if I rush the whole day I´ll arrive at my destination super early, and have a zillion hours it seems to do nothing. NO POINT! This walk is all about the journey, not about getting there first. I take my time during the day, because what am I rushing for? My walking time is my time with God, and why on Earth would I want to cut that short?!

Another thing I have realized is that although the big cities we come across on the way are beautiful, and someday I´d actually like to visit them, I´m in a completely different frame of mind while on THE CAMINO, and have little to no interest in exploring them. Now some of you may think that it´s crazy to be passing by all these beautiful and historic cities without taking a look, but I came here to learn about myself and my God. I think that is why I rarely wander in to a Cathedral. Although they are grand and luxurious, I find something off about them. It´s almost like they disconnect me from the intent of this trip. Burgos was a tough city...tons of tourists, and rich Spanish people shopping, and drinking and looking at the sites. I spent most of the day in bed.

New things every day.

Vaya con Dios

I saw God today.

God is inside you,
and everything else
that was or ever will be.
You come into this world with God,
but only them who look inside find Him.
Just as sure as moonlight blessed the night;
Like a blade of corn,
like a honey bee,
like a water fall,
all apart of me.
Like the color purple,
Where do it come from?
Open up your eyes,
look what God has done.

This morning on my walk I made my way up this rocky path to the top of a mountain, where a huge cross stood. I felt like I was there when He died. It was very surreal, and when I passed the cross, I came upon the most beautiful labyrinth that some kind pilgrim must have made. This was a calling for me. To take time out at the top of this cold foggy mountain in the wind, to walk the path. Over a half an hour I would say to the center, but well worth it. The above lyrics from "The Color Purple" speak the truth. You must look inside to find God, and today I did just that.

Half Day...

Today I got up early to call my Justin... (smile) and then said goodbye to my young american girl friends, then went back to sleep for an hour and a half. I left the albergue around 7:45am and headed to a cafe about 2km away to get some breakfast. Since I was planning on a short day I only had 2.5km left after I stopped for breakfast. I arrived in Viloria del Rioja around 9am, but the albergue didn´t open until 11, so I sat at a picnic table and wrote in my journal for a while. After about 30 minutes I was very chilly and decided I would rather walk and be warm then wait an hour and a half longer and be cold! So, I walked the 8.5km to Belorado. It´s a good thing though, because I was able to get food for myself for the next couple of days, and go to the bank as well. It was still a half day, and I will have another half day tomorrow with only about 12km, so instead of one whole day I get 2 smaller days. Tomorrow I will sleep a little later like today and enjoy my morning walk (hopefully it won´t rain).

224km down!

So here I sit in this strange twighlight zone town in an albergue that is donation everything, and when we checked in and didn´t order dinner the hospitaldora probably thought we were all nuts! We walked around town, except there really isn´t a town, just a row of houses. The last few days have been pretty eventful I guess I could say...trying to remember. Los Arcos to Viana, Viana to Navarette, Navarette to Azofra, and Azofra to Redicillo del Camino. In Viana we arrived to our refugio just as it opened (oh I have been walking with my american girls since Puente La Reina). The town was beginning a festival, so there was a huge concert infront of the cathedral, and we missed the running of the bulls the next day as it was at 2pm. The town was a beautiful little city on top of a hill and had gates all over, which we didn´t understand until we found out about the bull run! The next day we walked to Navarette which was a very small cobblestoned street village (as most are). We arrived an hour before it opened, so we put our packs in line and went to the bar where we all had a few glasses of wine. We were in La Rioja country which is where wine is cheaper than water and each glass was under 1 US dollar! YAY! Yesterday we were off to Azofra which was exciting because they only had 2 beds in each room (NO BUNK BEDS!!!!). I was feeling a bit feverish, so I layed down, and boy did the group of people I chat with get DRUNK off of about 5 bottles of wine (there were about 6 of them and when you are walking all day, and don´t eat a ton, that is PLENTY!). I was feeling very solitary, so I stayed away and went to sleep at 7:30pm. Today was the WEIRD day! First half fairly good. We were greeted by a very friendly cat early thismorning, and when we reached Santo Domingo we had a lovely breakfast of chocolate croissants! We were planning on walking to Grañon (only 4.7km after SD), but when we arrived, the only place to stay was in a stone church with yoga mats on the floor. All of us were feeling sore and not really wanting to get no sleep on the hard cold floor, so we decided to walk the 3.8km to Redicilla del Camino. It was a fairly short walk, and when we arrived we really appreciated the Albergue, but in my guide book it said there were 2 bars, and a bakery (plenty of options for food)...but when we walked around, there was NOTHING!!!! so...I´m short on cash (didn´t think about checking the places we were walking through to see if I needed an ATM, and have very little food with me! OH and we were so starving, that the woman was SO KIND and cooked omlettes for us even though we were not supposed to get anything until 7pm. So sweet of her! Tomorrow I leave my american girls, as they have less time than me, and I have tomorrow scheduled as a rest day (only 4.4km!). The place I´m staying tomorrow cooks dinner for us, so I´m pretty sure I can survive on trail mix, an apple and energy drink mixes that I brought along for this exact reason!

Lots going on...

Until next time...

43km from Puente La Reina to Los Arcos

I´m here in Los Arcos. Yesterday I walked with the girls (Claire, Ginny and Courtney) to Estella. The first Albergue was full, but by chance we found another that had beds and let me tell you it was a diamond in the rough!!! We got there and there were snacks and drinks laid out on this long table under a tarp, and a Spanish pilgrim playing the guitar. It was only by donation, and they had a crazy cook named Luis that made 30+ of us a WONDERFUL dinner, plus breakfast this morning! We were so happy! Today was an easier walking day, but very hot. It seems like the last 4km or so is VERY LONG! But, here I am in Los Arcos with a lovely 4 person room. Have enough food for dinner tonight...trying to save some $$$$. Tomorrow is only 19km I believe to Viana. Trucking along. It´s an experience that EVERYONE should have...even if it´s for only a couple of days.

Talk soon!

Humbled

This pilgrimage is very humbling. Every day I let pilgrim after pilgrim pass me along the way. It is such a good learning experience. I am beginning to learn how to follow my own body/spirit instead of the ¨mob mentality¨. Really figuring out what I need and how far I can go. I made it 20km to Puente La Reina today. The sky is clear and BEAUTIFUL! Got to see a gorgeous sun rise today while climbing a mountain! I caught up with some girls I left yesterday. It´s always nice to see a familiar face. I have now come over 90km!!!!! Every day is a celebration! Thank You God!

talk soon!

xoxoxo

Cizur Menor

Today was a beautiful day. Getting very hot though, so I am glad today was my rest day. I walked through Pamplona and stopped to get some things to make sandwiches with. It was only 4.7km from Pamplona to this beautiful albergue. How wonderful! There is a beautiful courtyard with shade and a pond. The view of Pamplona is picturesque but I wished I had taken one coming into Pamplona to get the fort and older looking buildings. Tomorrow I will head on some 20km to Puente La Reina. And on I go...

Roncesvalles to Pamplona. 2 days. 42.8 km

Well...I have reached Pamplona...for those of you who don´t know, this is the city in Spain that is famous for the running of the bulls. So yesterday was a very tough day, but had really good moments. I started out very slowly, as I must have pulled my hipflexer the day before, and it was quite painful to walk. I spent the first third of my day praying to God to get me to Zubiri without any trouble. I spent the next third praising him because miraculously the pain lifted and I was able to walk with no trouble at all. I had decided I would only walk to Larasoana the following day (ie today) to give myself a day of rest since it would only be 5.5km. On the way down hill my boot got caught twice and my hipflexer tensed right up again! Aargh! But I trudged on, and then saw a sign that the refugio in Larasoana would be closed on the 4th-6th! So, I made my way slowly to Zubiri, and let me tell you that the last 3.5km went so slow I didn´t actually believe it was only 3.5. When I arrived in Zubiri the first albergue was full, and the second was as well. The courtyard of the second was full of about 50 pilgrims waiting for the overflow to open up in the gym. I was lucky to get one of the 28 foam mattresses available to sleep in the gym, however many had to sleep on the cement floor. Today I woke with very little pain, and all the motivation in the world. I decided to walk all the way to Pamplona today, as the only other refugio was only 1 hour from Pamplona, so I thought I may as well. It was a beautiful walk today. Gorgeous sunny skies, and for those of you back in the Kootenays, it was just like walking up and down our beautiful mountains and valleys! When I arrived in Pamplona I found a bed, and crashed. I slept 2 hours! I was so stinky but didn´t care! I just took a shower and washed my gross clothes, and will find somewhere to eat maybe with some people I have met along the way. Tomorrow I only go as far as Cizor Menor, which is 5.5km. I decided that I need to give my legs a rest, and because I have planned for times like these I can afford a short day and still make it to Santiago by October 13th. Well folks. Love you all. Next post...TBA!

St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles 27km

Today I left bright and early at 6:30am. Many other pilgrims were leaving at the same time as me. I was very careful not to go quickly, or worry about how fast other people were going. Things have changed a lot in the past 6 years! So far things are a lot more up to date. Hot water, laundry, internet?! Crazy! It was a very long day, but I did it 1/2 an hour quicker than I thought I would (that being said, I did go quite slow and took many breaks). The weather was NOT GOOD...what an experience! High winds and rain, with fog and temperatures that chilled you to the bone...but I made it! It´s funny that the downhill actually hurt more than the up hill! The scenery is BEAUTIFUL though and I´m meeting a lot of wonderful people. Tonight I have dinner with some at a restaurant called La Posada. A lot of restaurants a long the way give a pre-determined dinner plate to pilgrims for cheaper. OH BY THE WAY...everything is SO EXPENSIVE! Now, if the stupid american dollar was at par with the euro, that would be fine, but NO...anyhoo...Much love to all! Will write again when a computer is available!

Travel Day One

Well...it was a long squished flight from Chicago to Amsterdam. Got about 2 hours combined of sleep. Arrived in Amsterdam at 6:30am (11:30pm chicago time), and went into town. Walked around for about 2 hours, but I was FREEZING! I left my jacket in my back pack which was checked through! UGH! So, I stopped at a market for some bread, sheep cheese and an apple, and headed back to the airport, where I have also been freezing! But I've been able to get a little more sleep on some comfy chairs. Next is my connecting flight to Paris followed by an over-night train to Bayonne, and then a small local train to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the morning. I should have the entire day there to get settled, see the town, get my pilgrim's passport and some food, before settling in for an early night! I'm gonna need the rest before I start my walk on Friday. The walk from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles is said to be one of the hardest day of th 500 miles to Santiago. I remember it well. At least I'm a little more prepared this time!

Until next time,

Buen Camino!

Today it begins...

Well, today it begins. I saw Justin off to work this morning, and as neither one of us wanted to say goodbye yet, I'm going to swing by the hospital around 10 to say the official "see you soon". A few last minute cleaning things to get done, some bubble wrap or something to buy to wrap my walking stick since times have changed since I last attempted the Camino, and I am no longer able to carry it on with me. After meeting Justin I'm blessed to be able to have lunch with Marissa and Shannon at my favorite restaurant: The Chicago Diner! From there, my two lovely friends are going to drop me at the airport (around 1pm). My flight is scheduled out of O'Hare at 4:15pm.

I am now getting the sick feeling in the pit of my stomach that comes with nervousness, and pain of saying "so long" to the person I love most in this world.

I keep reminding myself of the journey I am about to embark upon. It is the chance of a lifetime. This journey is going to change me in only ways that God knows. BRING IT ON! If I've learned anything in my 26 1/2 years on this earth, it's that I have to be willing to take RISKS.

Buen Camino!