Munich

Well folks...about to hop a train to Paris, and I thought I'd give you all a little update!

So Saturday Jen arrived back in Munich, and we just hung out in the apartment chatting and eating. Sunday Jen and I went for a walk in the woods, which was wonderful! (Felt so good to be walking like that again!)

Monday was probably my favorite day since the end of the Camino. Jen and I spent about 9 hours at Therme Erding...a nude spa! It was so increadible! We were a little nervous at first, but you get used to everyone being naked fairly quickly. There were a million different kind of dry saunas including one that baked fresh bread, a wet sauna that was infused with eucalyptus, and a star gazing one. We got salt scrubs, honey peels, and yogurt masks. We also got to tan a bit, stand under waterfalls in "stone henge" swim in the jetted pool, and drink champagne at the naked pool bar! It was an AMAZING day!

Tuesday was also very lovely, because I got to meet up with my Camino friend Anna, from Australia. We did a lot of walking around Munich...saw a bit of the English Gardens, ate a pretzel, and just enjoyed eachothers company. On Wednesday I spent the day in Dachau which is the site of the first concentration camp. It was a tough visit, but something I felt I had to do while in Germany. I choked back tears all day, and it started as soon as I stepped through the gate that read "ARBEIT MACHT FREI" which means "work makes you free". They have restored some of the original buildings, but I couldn't imagine what it would have looked like with the thirty-some bunkers that used to be there. Now they are just large rectangular sections each marked with a number. The one bunker that we were able to walk through was horrifying. Just imagining the hundreds of starving and sick people shoved into this tiny hall of bunks. I won't put the word bed in there, because they were basically just wooden stalls. It was really creepy to walk through the crematorium (sp?). We were walked through first where the people were told to take off their clothes in order for them to "shower", then into the room marked "showers" that was actually an airtight space that was filled with poisonous gas once the doors were shut. That room opened up into another square room where bodies were dragged to await their cremation. The actual crematorium was these 3 or 4 huge ovens that would burn 4-5 bodies at once. Wow. It was a very moving day.

Onto more pleasant things...Hung out with Jen and Vesta Wednesday night and all day Thursday, and because of some concerns about getting in trouble with their landlord, I found another place to stay Thursday night. I signed up for this thing called couchsurfing which is the coolest idea ever! Basically it is a HUGE community of people online who offer a couch or a peice of floor to travellers who need a place to stay. I stayed with an awesome girl Marie, who actually ended up inviting me to stay Friday night as well. So, I wandered around town yesterday, and had a chick flick night last night! I was expecting to catch a 7:30am train to Paris, but the connecting train was sold out, so I'm out on a 10:30 train, that actually gets there at the same time anyway!

Tonight I am staying at Aloha Hostel, tomorrow I am staying at St. Christopher's, and then Monday and Tuesday night I am spending at a girl's place named Rosa. Then, it is back to the States, and home to Chicago to see my man!

The Week after...

Well, it has been about a week since I last posted anything. I left Santiago for Madrid last Saturday, arrived at the airport, bought myself a 3 day pass on the metra, hopped on and off about 3 trains, and called my cousin Curry when I arrived. Apparently there was some confusion about my arrival, and she had sent me to her friend's house because she thought I was arriving the night before...unfortunately I didn't get her email before I left, so she was apologetic and told me her friend would be right there. I must say that since the Camino I am much more layed back when it comes to last minute changes like this. I just go with the flow!

So her 18 year old friend Andreas picked me up and escorted me back to his place. He totally made me feel at home, and I just chilled until Curry arrived. She felt so bad, but I couldn't stress enough that it was NO BIG DEAL! We hung out, went out for some Tapas, and ended up staying up till 3am (actually they stayed up till about 5!)! The best part was that we didn't actually wake up until 2pm!!!!! I'm pretty sure the last time I did that I was severely ill! Oh and I forgot to mention that Andreas was a total sweetie and let me sleep in his twin bed! Curry was supposed to get the couch, but his roomate ended up never leaving the tv! I felt so bad when they told me how cold it was, but they assured me that I was the guest and there was no way I was sleeping on the floor!

Andreas then helped me get a ticket for the same Bullfight they were seeing that day at 5:30pm. I couldn't believe it! I hadn't planned on it, but when in Madrid... So we went off to meet some of Curry's flat-mates at the arena, and it was pretty surreal! The first fight was awful and made Curry and I wonder whether or not we would make it through the whole evening! Turns out that the first Matador was just really bad! We also got to see a few things that rarely happen: 1. A bull jumped over the guard railing 2. 2 horses were knocked completely on their sides by bulls 3. 2 bulls were set free (they won!). The only 2 things missing was a bulls ear being cut off and given to an audience member, and a matador getting thrown across the arena.

The next day Curry took me around for a bit of sight seeing where we packed sandwiches and ate lunch by a fountain. We hung out at Andreas' apartment and he cooked spanish tortilla on my request!

Tuesday was supposed to be my big touristy day since Curry was at school all day, but it ended up being cold and rainy. I did make it to the Museo de Prado which was fabulous, and did a little walking around. That night Andreas, Curry and I became much closer and gave blood at the nearest hospital. This was a first for Curry and I, but we did alright (besides the nurses yelling at Curry to keep her eyes open!). Andreas then cooked us the most enormous burgers I've ever seen! We needed them too, becuase even though we were told not to have alcohol for 3 hours Curry and I both had a glass of wine (to which after about 4 sips I was drunk)!

Wednesday morning I said goodbye to Curry and headed for the airport. On the train I realized I had forgotten the gorgeous brand new jewelry I had bought on Curry's desk and I didn't have enough time to go back! (CURRY...I HOPE YOU CAN MAIL THEM TO ME!)

Everything went smoothly on the flight to Frankfurt, and when i arrived I looked for the Train station. Only I found out from the info desk that the ticket I had was from the main airport which was an hour and a half bus ride away! The man told me that there was no way i was going to make my train, but that there was another one only a half an hour afterwords. I reminded myself of my new philosophy on accepting last minute changes, and just said whatever happens happens.

Sitting on the bus waiting for it to leave I recognized a woman that I had noticed at the luggage carrousel and I thought she looked familiar. I realized that she was the woman who had checked me in in St Jean Pied de Port on her birthday! I didn't get a chance to talk to her until the bus arrived at the station, but it was wonderful to just say hi and connect with someone who knew what I had just gone through!

I arrived at the track 2 minutes before my original train arrived! See...all you gotta do is go with the flow and all will work out! So I had a 3 1/2 hour train ride to Munich, and once there had to make my way to the U Bahn 2 to get to Jen's place. At the ticket machine I was very confused as I wanted to by a multiple trip ticket but couldn't figure it out. This creepy guy came over and talked to me for a bit until I told him I had to go check if the counters were open upstairs. I eventually just came back down as i knew everything was closed (it was 11pm) and bought a 1 trip ticket. I got on the train and got off at the correct stop where I pretty much found the apartment right away (though Jen told me the pizza place was on my right, when it was actually on my left...lol). Vesta let me in and has been wonderful putting up with my lazy ass on her couch for the past 2 days! Jen has been in Italy doing her scubadiving certification and will arrive back here tomorrow morning. Sheesh! What a post! Well...until the next post...

Leaving Santiago...

So today officially ends the Camino portion of my trip. And still...a little in shock that I just did it. Last night was the first night I really cried in quite a while. It is really strange to have a daily ritual just ripped right out from underneath you. My body craves being on it´s feet, and I'm glad! Although yesterday really brought home how tired I´ve been. I fell asleep for 3 hours yesterday afternoon. Yikes!

The Camino taught me so much, and I am SO BLESSED to have been able to experience something like this in my lifetime. I was touched by so many pilgrims: Noel from Quebec, Courtney from California, Ginny from uh well she's moving to Florida, Claire from near Boston, Anna and Helen from Perth, Myrle from Vancouver, Paola from Barcelona (though an Aussie), and most of all my good friend Tash, from South Africa. You really do create really special bonds on this journey. I met so many others as well...too many to name, but this handful opened my eyes a lot over the course of 40 days. I learned a lot about myself, and certain things that I was not aware of before have all been worked out. I had so much time to think, and pray, and one of the biggest things I learned is that you really have to take things one day at a time, and not worry or rush through things. I'm really hoping I can bring the things that I've learned into my every day life when I return to Chicago.

The toughest thing for me since I arrived here in Santiago is being away from Justin. Although I missed him a ton while on the journey, I was doing something I really needed to do for myself, and now that the journey is finished I am homesick for him. Not constantly doing something (though that means something completely different on the Camino...not like in a big city) has really been rough. Last night I cried as I hung up the phone, and although I know I will have a lot of fun over the next 2 1/2 weeks, I can't wait to jump into his arms when I get back.

So, I will post a little on my adventures in Madrid, Munich and Paris over the next two weeks, but nothing in comparisson to The Camino.

Much love to all...and thank you!

800km in 40 days

I made it to Santiago! I use the exclamation point, but I´m not really sure it´s appropriate for how I feel. In fact, I don´t really know how I feel. Yesterday I was quite emotional walking through the Eucalyptus woods, and today when I saw the Santiago sign on the road, I felt sick to my stomach, and wanted to run the other way. But, now that I´m here, it´s lovely seeing old pilgrim friends!

I stayed the last 2 nights in pensiones with my Australian friend Paola which was a lovely change from the Albergues, and we walked into the city thismorning together. I also met up with my friends Anna and Helen and had lunch, and am about to meet up with them in a bit. Tomorrow I get to just hang out in the city, and Thursday I´m taking the bus out to Finisterre (The end of the earth) to meet Tash, who started walking today (it will take her 3 days to walk there). So, more to come on exactly how I feel about this whole thing being over...need some time to chew on it all.

Saturday it´s off to Madrid to visit my cousing Curry, and then in a week or so it´s off to Germany to chill with my good friend Jen!

Galacia

For the past few days I have been walking through Galacia. Now, I had the knowledge that this part was known to be rainy, but what I didn´t know was that it was litterally like walking through a rain forest! Today especially. The temperature is cool, but VERY humid! It didn´t RAIN really, but it was like being in a constant mist all day. If you´ve ever been to an indoor raiforest exibit at a zoo, you´ve probably experienced a little part of what I went through today.

Dissapointed, because I was already doing a longer day, and then I got to the Albergue I was planning on staying in, and they were full. AAARRGH! So, I charged on to the next town 3km away. Just need some rest now. I have 3 short days left: 16km, 14km and 10km. I very well could have done it in 2, but I wanted to have a short walk the day I arrive in Santiago.

Only 100km left...

So, it´s been a while since I´ve been able to sit at a computer for a long period of time and it´s about time for an update.

I last left you in Hospital de Orbigo on Day 26...

Day 27. Murias de Rechivaldo:

Met a lovely woman about my age on the top of this crest with a beautiful cart with fruit, pastries and beverages for the pilgrims by donation. She had walked the Camino last year, and when she returned home to Barcelona decided that the city was too busy, and all about the sell sell sell and buy buy buy. So she packed up and moved to a tiny village along the Camino to care for Pilgrims! This was awesome, but definitely made me think about what it is going to be like trying to get readjusted to life in a big city. PLUS...stayed in a lovely Albergue where there were only 4 of us!

Day 28. Foncebadon:

Superb walk up a mountain with beautiful views passing all sorts of old ancient villages. Got to the first crest and there was a red swing hanging from a strong tree...JUST FOR ME!!! So I sat and had a water break on the swing-LOVELY! Village lined with horses, goats, dogs, and of course, cats. Tiny abandoned village, but the most lovely albergue that made their own goat yogurt and honey which I was more than happy to partake of! Today marked the end of my 4th week!

Day 29. Molineseca:

Gorgeous walk today as well! Up a little more, with the enormous iron cross standing at the crest. Got to see the mist rise over the mountains today. Got the ULTIMATE compliment today... "You sure look relaxed!" This was awesome to hear, because I DID NOT come on the Camino to rush through my day. I take my time! Otherwise I would not make it. I would end up hurting myself!

Day 30. Cacabelos:

Was able to help out my South African friend Tash today. She ran into a nasty snag and had not even enough money for the next 2 days. I gave her 100€ and told her it will work out. We walked the last 7km together, and about 4km before Cacabelos walked by this HUGE fountain, and I could not pass up the chance to run through! Tash and I took our bags off, and ran beneath what felt like a waterfall! So lovely though to be like children once and a while!

Day 31. Trabadelo:

Had a leisurely day today...layed on the couch and watched Spanish TV...hahaha... walked mostly along the highway, but underneath this huge expressway on STILTS through the mountains! Reminded me of Hawaii! I met a French-Canadian named Adelle, and we cooked a lovely dinner together.

Day 32. O Cebreiro:

Tash sorted out her money issues! So she handed me my 100€ with a huge grin on her face, so glad to have worked everything out! Climbed another massive mountain today and am staying right on top. I arrived just before the rain hit...what good timing! Drank tea, as I was trying to ward off a cold that I felt coming on. Tash, Myrle (63 year old woman from Vancouver) and I made dinner together and had wine and chocolate as well.

Day 33. Triacastela:

The cold hit me like a ton of bricks! I woke up last night with a fever, and threw everything off of me. Stopped in every town today to drink juice and water, and use the lou. Could not stay positive. BUT found and Albergue that had a BATH TUB! And although I was hesitant at first, I jumped right into a STEAMING bath and soaked for 20 minutes! Made chicken soup and went to the Pharmacy...here´s hoping!

THE LESSON FOR DAY 33: Shit!

Sometimes you have to go through shit, other times you are able to avoid the shit, and sometimes you choose to go through shit because it´s faster!

This lesson was a mirror image: my thoughts, and the actual cow shit that was EVERYWHERE!

Day 34. Sarria:

That cold medicine must have been strong! I was able to breathe through my nose again! Had a beautiful (though long) walk today. Gorgeous tree covered lanes through old villages.

Day 35. Portomarín:

Today was my day to be a child again. I walked the Camino with the heart of a young girl today. I walked slowly, and would stop to pet a dog, or to coo a horse. I would make up stories about where streams led, and would pretend there was some royal wedding taking place in a Chapel in the distance. I tried stepping only on stones and avoiding the earth. I flew down the lane with my arms out like a plane. I ate some chocolate. I had so much fun, I realized that I didn´t really take any breaks! But, I was doddling so much that it took me just as long as if I HAD taken breaks! What a day!

2 in a row!

How lucky I was to get reccomendations on the Albergue yesterday, and today! Albergue San Miguel in Hospital de Orbigo is so lovely! Again, lots of open air, but you walk in and in the sitting area there is an eisle, board, paint, and paintbrushes below a sign that says: ¨para ti¨ or ¨for you¨! How wonderful! I spent the afternoon painting an acrylic of the meseta...a lovely wheat field with the camino stretching between it...yay! The beds are wonderful, and I had a lovely lunch of leftovers and a great simple dinner of rice with zuccini and mushrooms. Tomorrow I may walk only the 16km to Astorga, or I may go on to the next smaller town. The feet will tell me how far to go! Rush rush rush...that seems to be a lot of people´s mentality here...I have to remind myself constantly that there IS no rush! I have people passing me all day long, and that´s OK. I get to my destination, and there is ALWAYS a bed!

If I can give you all any advice for the real world, it would be to stop rushing. Don´t be in a hurry all the time, and take the time to actually see the things that are happening around you.

500 down, 300 to go!

Haven´t really been around the internet for a few days, so let´s see if I can remember the last few days for you...

After Sahagun (last post), I made my way to El Burgo Ranero, where I met my Australians Anna and Helen, as well as Tash! This Albergue was kinda crazy with what seemed as Nazi American women as our hospitaleros, but it was by donation, and they had a kitchen so we made a feast for dinner. The next day I walked about 25km to some town I don´t remember, but they did have a lovely Albergue with a wonderful courtyard and AWESOME showers. PLUS not many pilgrims! Anna, Helen and I went in search of something to eat, but there was nothing open except a panederia where we found tuna empeñadas (sp?). I had rice in my bag, so we cooked rice with some veggie stock, and had our empañadas with it. Yesterday was a short 12-14km into León which was BEAUTIFUL! I was surprised how much I enjoyed it, but I guess when you aren´t completely bagged from the walk, and arrive at 11am, it works to your advantage. The Cathedral was beautiful! Today I walked about 21km to Mazarife and am staying in this really cozy Albergue built like a typical spanish house with a courtyard in the middle, and a lot of open air spaces. Tash, Anna, Helen and I have our own room which is fabulous...we get to draw on the wall...which is what I plan on doing after I write this, and we also made another enormous feast for lunch accompanied by wine, which is why it is taking me so damn long to write this post! I think I may lay in the hammock later or swim in the pool!

I can´t believe i´m almost 2/3 of the way finished! I´ve walked over 500km and have a little less than 300km to go! Crazy! I still have to conquer 2 more gigantic mountains before Santiago, but I´m sure I´ll do just fine!

Just Like That!

Today was a hell of a lot better than yesterday. I did somewhere between 22 and 24km, and when I arrived, at the reception they gave me a nice cold glass of water, and after showing me my bed brought me a plate of Paella! Best day ever! I´m sure I´ll say that a lot. But truly, love this Albergue, and also had some Australian friends that I met last night that greeted me as well. From bad to good, just like that!

Tough Day

So today marks the half-way point. I don´t know how I feel about that. It was a rough start to the day today. The first day that I really felt lathargic, and no motivation to get going. Once I did get started though, the first bit was ok...maybe the first 2km, but after that we were on a 15km path of this rocky gravel road, that was also infested with gnats...or some kind of very small flying bug. I found Tash along the way, and took a break for some food and to shed some clothes as it was getting hot. Started out again, and was having a very hard time keeping my "ZEN" about the bugs. I finally came up with a way to keep myself calm, and the bugs at a distance. I kept my buff in my hand and waved it back and forth infront of my face the whole day! I´ve also been having a lot of pain in the ball of my left foot. Wasn´t as bad today, but still pretty sore. All of those things plus the heat was too much for me today. The only thing keeping me going was the fact that the next town´s albergue had a swimming pool! I arrived here, put my stuff down by my bunk, and headed out back. So lovely to sit in the sun after a dip in a cold pool. For those of you from the Kootenays it was similar temperature to Kootenay Lake. But so lovely after a long hot walk! So, I still stay positive regardless of my negative morning! I´ve walked 20 days and I have 20 more to go. Here´goes!

Speed and Size

I realize that everyone has a different pace, for whatever reason, be it leg size or just pure hurry. I have been blessed with the gift of patience on this trip. I´m not usually the most patient person, but on this journey I have learned great patience. I am stunned at the number of people who rush by me every day. In the beginning, even though I was going fairly slow I still was waking up hours before dawn and making my way in the dark to insure I had a bed for the night. My mentality has changed. 1: if I walk in the dark in the early morning I have a high chance of tripping on something and hurting myself, or getting lost because of non-visable way-markers. 2: the Camino will always take care of me...if there is not a bed at one, there will be somewhere. There is not point in worrying. 3: if I rush the whole day I´ll arrive at my destination super early, and have a zillion hours it seems to do nothing. NO POINT! This walk is all about the journey, not about getting there first. I take my time during the day, because what am I rushing for? My walking time is my time with God, and why on Earth would I want to cut that short?!

Another thing I have realized is that although the big cities we come across on the way are beautiful, and someday I´d actually like to visit them, I´m in a completely different frame of mind while on THE CAMINO, and have little to no interest in exploring them. Now some of you may think that it´s crazy to be passing by all these beautiful and historic cities without taking a look, but I came here to learn about myself and my God. I think that is why I rarely wander in to a Cathedral. Although they are grand and luxurious, I find something off about them. It´s almost like they disconnect me from the intent of this trip. Burgos was a tough city...tons of tourists, and rich Spanish people shopping, and drinking and looking at the sites. I spent most of the day in bed.

New things every day.

Vaya con Dios

I saw God today.

God is inside you,
and everything else
that was or ever will be.
You come into this world with God,
but only them who look inside find Him.
Just as sure as moonlight blessed the night;
Like a blade of corn,
like a honey bee,
like a water fall,
all apart of me.
Like the color purple,
Where do it come from?
Open up your eyes,
look what God has done.

This morning on my walk I made my way up this rocky path to the top of a mountain, where a huge cross stood. I felt like I was there when He died. It was very surreal, and when I passed the cross, I came upon the most beautiful labyrinth that some kind pilgrim must have made. This was a calling for me. To take time out at the top of this cold foggy mountain in the wind, to walk the path. Over a half an hour I would say to the center, but well worth it. The above lyrics from "The Color Purple" speak the truth. You must look inside to find God, and today I did just that.

Half Day...

Today I got up early to call my Justin... (smile) and then said goodbye to my young american girl friends, then went back to sleep for an hour and a half. I left the albergue around 7:45am and headed to a cafe about 2km away to get some breakfast. Since I was planning on a short day I only had 2.5km left after I stopped for breakfast. I arrived in Viloria del Rioja around 9am, but the albergue didn´t open until 11, so I sat at a picnic table and wrote in my journal for a while. After about 30 minutes I was very chilly and decided I would rather walk and be warm then wait an hour and a half longer and be cold! So, I walked the 8.5km to Belorado. It´s a good thing though, because I was able to get food for myself for the next couple of days, and go to the bank as well. It was still a half day, and I will have another half day tomorrow with only about 12km, so instead of one whole day I get 2 smaller days. Tomorrow I will sleep a little later like today and enjoy my morning walk (hopefully it won´t rain).

224km down!

So here I sit in this strange twighlight zone town in an albergue that is donation everything, and when we checked in and didn´t order dinner the hospitaldora probably thought we were all nuts! We walked around town, except there really isn´t a town, just a row of houses. The last few days have been pretty eventful I guess I could say...trying to remember. Los Arcos to Viana, Viana to Navarette, Navarette to Azofra, and Azofra to Redicillo del Camino. In Viana we arrived to our refugio just as it opened (oh I have been walking with my american girls since Puente La Reina). The town was beginning a festival, so there was a huge concert infront of the cathedral, and we missed the running of the bulls the next day as it was at 2pm. The town was a beautiful little city on top of a hill and had gates all over, which we didn´t understand until we found out about the bull run! The next day we walked to Navarette which was a very small cobblestoned street village (as most are). We arrived an hour before it opened, so we put our packs in line and went to the bar where we all had a few glasses of wine. We were in La Rioja country which is where wine is cheaper than water and each glass was under 1 US dollar! YAY! Yesterday we were off to Azofra which was exciting because they only had 2 beds in each room (NO BUNK BEDS!!!!). I was feeling a bit feverish, so I layed down, and boy did the group of people I chat with get DRUNK off of about 5 bottles of wine (there were about 6 of them and when you are walking all day, and don´t eat a ton, that is PLENTY!). I was feeling very solitary, so I stayed away and went to sleep at 7:30pm. Today was the WEIRD day! First half fairly good. We were greeted by a very friendly cat early thismorning, and when we reached Santo Domingo we had a lovely breakfast of chocolate croissants! We were planning on walking to Grañon (only 4.7km after SD), but when we arrived, the only place to stay was in a stone church with yoga mats on the floor. All of us were feeling sore and not really wanting to get no sleep on the hard cold floor, so we decided to walk the 3.8km to Redicilla del Camino. It was a fairly short walk, and when we arrived we really appreciated the Albergue, but in my guide book it said there were 2 bars, and a bakery (plenty of options for food)...but when we walked around, there was NOTHING!!!! so...I´m short on cash (didn´t think about checking the places we were walking through to see if I needed an ATM, and have very little food with me! OH and we were so starving, that the woman was SO KIND and cooked omlettes for us even though we were not supposed to get anything until 7pm. So sweet of her! Tomorrow I leave my american girls, as they have less time than me, and I have tomorrow scheduled as a rest day (only 4.4km!). The place I´m staying tomorrow cooks dinner for us, so I´m pretty sure I can survive on trail mix, an apple and energy drink mixes that I brought along for this exact reason!

Lots going on...

Until next time...

43km from Puente La Reina to Los Arcos

I´m here in Los Arcos. Yesterday I walked with the girls (Claire, Ginny and Courtney) to Estella. The first Albergue was full, but by chance we found another that had beds and let me tell you it was a diamond in the rough!!! We got there and there were snacks and drinks laid out on this long table under a tarp, and a Spanish pilgrim playing the guitar. It was only by donation, and they had a crazy cook named Luis that made 30+ of us a WONDERFUL dinner, plus breakfast this morning! We were so happy! Today was an easier walking day, but very hot. It seems like the last 4km or so is VERY LONG! But, here I am in Los Arcos with a lovely 4 person room. Have enough food for dinner tonight...trying to save some $$$$. Tomorrow is only 19km I believe to Viana. Trucking along. It´s an experience that EVERYONE should have...even if it´s for only a couple of days.

Talk soon!

Humbled

This pilgrimage is very humbling. Every day I let pilgrim after pilgrim pass me along the way. It is such a good learning experience. I am beginning to learn how to follow my own body/spirit instead of the ¨mob mentality¨. Really figuring out what I need and how far I can go. I made it 20km to Puente La Reina today. The sky is clear and BEAUTIFUL! Got to see a gorgeous sun rise today while climbing a mountain! I caught up with some girls I left yesterday. It´s always nice to see a familiar face. I have now come over 90km!!!!! Every day is a celebration! Thank You God!

talk soon!

xoxoxo

Cizur Menor

Today was a beautiful day. Getting very hot though, so I am glad today was my rest day. I walked through Pamplona and stopped to get some things to make sandwiches with. It was only 4.7km from Pamplona to this beautiful albergue. How wonderful! There is a beautiful courtyard with shade and a pond. The view of Pamplona is picturesque but I wished I had taken one coming into Pamplona to get the fort and older looking buildings. Tomorrow I will head on some 20km to Puente La Reina. And on I go...

Roncesvalles to Pamplona. 2 days. 42.8 km

Well...I have reached Pamplona...for those of you who don´t know, this is the city in Spain that is famous for the running of the bulls. So yesterday was a very tough day, but had really good moments. I started out very slowly, as I must have pulled my hipflexer the day before, and it was quite painful to walk. I spent the first third of my day praying to God to get me to Zubiri without any trouble. I spent the next third praising him because miraculously the pain lifted and I was able to walk with no trouble at all. I had decided I would only walk to Larasoana the following day (ie today) to give myself a day of rest since it would only be 5.5km. On the way down hill my boot got caught twice and my hipflexer tensed right up again! Aargh! But I trudged on, and then saw a sign that the refugio in Larasoana would be closed on the 4th-6th! So, I made my way slowly to Zubiri, and let me tell you that the last 3.5km went so slow I didn´t actually believe it was only 3.5. When I arrived in Zubiri the first albergue was full, and the second was as well. The courtyard of the second was full of about 50 pilgrims waiting for the overflow to open up in the gym. I was lucky to get one of the 28 foam mattresses available to sleep in the gym, however many had to sleep on the cement floor. Today I woke with very little pain, and all the motivation in the world. I decided to walk all the way to Pamplona today, as the only other refugio was only 1 hour from Pamplona, so I thought I may as well. It was a beautiful walk today. Gorgeous sunny skies, and for those of you back in the Kootenays, it was just like walking up and down our beautiful mountains and valleys! When I arrived in Pamplona I found a bed, and crashed. I slept 2 hours! I was so stinky but didn´t care! I just took a shower and washed my gross clothes, and will find somewhere to eat maybe with some people I have met along the way. Tomorrow I only go as far as Cizor Menor, which is 5.5km. I decided that I need to give my legs a rest, and because I have planned for times like these I can afford a short day and still make it to Santiago by October 13th. Well folks. Love you all. Next post...TBA!

St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles 27km

Today I left bright and early at 6:30am. Many other pilgrims were leaving at the same time as me. I was very careful not to go quickly, or worry about how fast other people were going. Things have changed a lot in the past 6 years! So far things are a lot more up to date. Hot water, laundry, internet?! Crazy! It was a very long day, but I did it 1/2 an hour quicker than I thought I would (that being said, I did go quite slow and took many breaks). The weather was NOT GOOD...what an experience! High winds and rain, with fog and temperatures that chilled you to the bone...but I made it! It´s funny that the downhill actually hurt more than the up hill! The scenery is BEAUTIFUL though and I´m meeting a lot of wonderful people. Tonight I have dinner with some at a restaurant called La Posada. A lot of restaurants a long the way give a pre-determined dinner plate to pilgrims for cheaper. OH BY THE WAY...everything is SO EXPENSIVE! Now, if the stupid american dollar was at par with the euro, that would be fine, but NO...anyhoo...Much love to all! Will write again when a computer is available!

Travel Day One

Well...it was a long squished flight from Chicago to Amsterdam. Got about 2 hours combined of sleep. Arrived in Amsterdam at 6:30am (11:30pm chicago time), and went into town. Walked around for about 2 hours, but I was FREEZING! I left my jacket in my back pack which was checked through! UGH! So, I stopped at a market for some bread, sheep cheese and an apple, and headed back to the airport, where I have also been freezing! But I've been able to get a little more sleep on some comfy chairs. Next is my connecting flight to Paris followed by an over-night train to Bayonne, and then a small local train to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the morning. I should have the entire day there to get settled, see the town, get my pilgrim's passport and some food, before settling in for an early night! I'm gonna need the rest before I start my walk on Friday. The walk from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles is said to be one of the hardest day of th 500 miles to Santiago. I remember it well. At least I'm a little more prepared this time!

Until next time,

Buen Camino!

Today it begins...

Well, today it begins. I saw Justin off to work this morning, and as neither one of us wanted to say goodbye yet, I'm going to swing by the hospital around 10 to say the official "see you soon". A few last minute cleaning things to get done, some bubble wrap or something to buy to wrap my walking stick since times have changed since I last attempted the Camino, and I am no longer able to carry it on with me. After meeting Justin I'm blessed to be able to have lunch with Marissa and Shannon at my favorite restaurant: The Chicago Diner! From there, my two lovely friends are going to drop me at the airport (around 1pm). My flight is scheduled out of O'Hare at 4:15pm.

I am now getting the sick feeling in the pit of my stomach that comes with nervousness, and pain of saying "so long" to the person I love most in this world.

I keep reminding myself of the journey I am about to embark upon. It is the chance of a lifetime. This journey is going to change me in only ways that God knows. BRING IT ON! If I've learned anything in my 26 1/2 years on this earth, it's that I have to be willing to take RISKS.

Buen Camino!

One more week...

So my backpack is weighted at about 20lbs. That is more than some people say is good, but less than what I have heard others have carried. Yesterday I did a 14 mile trek with my backpack, and other than being tired, today I actually feel great! I'm getting nervous now, and starting to have trip nightmares. Normal though. Things are wrapping up here though. Everything getting settled before I leave. Stay tuned for more to come!

Spiritually Moving

So this past week has been very good, in a completely non-physical way. I've been reading "Walk In A Relaxed Manner" by Joyce Rupp, and it has opened my eyes to so many challenges I may encounter while walking the Camino. Here is an excerpt that really spoke to me...

My Camino disappointments also taught me a better approach to life. If I expect every day to be harmonious and trouble free, I will be disheartened and discouraged. If I think I can plan and arrange my day so well that nothing will enter in except what I want to have there, i will be frustrated and full of irritation. When I recognize disappointments and accept them for what they are--experiences where my expectations are not met--then I can approach them in a much calmer and more growthful manner. Disappointments along the way of life do not need to side-track me from a life of joy and gratitude.

This has always applied to me. In that way I am definitely a Charlotte (Sex and the City)! Over the past 5 years or so, I would say that this part of me has definitely calmed down, but when I read this passage I realized that there are still moments in my life today when I set myself up for disappointment. So here I am, preparing myself for this 500 mile trek...along with that comes many expectations, though I may not be fully aware of them. I only hope that I can just let myself experience things day by day on my walk, instead of hoping for some great spiritual movement inside of me.

Week 2...

Ok...been walking home from work about 3 times a week, and doing a major trek at least once a week. Have now acquired: emergency medical kit, hiking pants, socks, underwear, waterproofing for my boots, rain poncho and hat. Rail tickets arrived in the mail, and things are rolling along.

On my walks home from work, I am reminded of all of the small things and life that are beautiful...you know when the color of the sky and the color of the water just have this brilliant chemistry and you can't help but notice? Or witnessing generations of men playing chess by the waterside. Beautiful flowers that were always there, but they just seemed to pop out at me today! Or even just the image of a single scene that takes place distant in the future that makes you smile from ear to ear...these are just a few...but oh so wonderful!

Just less than four weeks to go!

Wednesday to Saturday

Well...haven't done any major walking...been feeling pretty crappy and been pretty busy. I have been taking the stairs up those 9 flights every day. Other than that I took a 1.5 mile walk to meet my man for dinner. My food intake has been pretty awful. Just wanting to eat junk you know. My work schedule has been turned around a little so I'm working tomorrow. I'm going to try my best but I don't know if I'll get my walk in tomorrow. gonna try for 10 miles on Monday.

Training Day 3

Exercise: 4.5 mile walk (small backpack only)
Water: about 3 Litres
Food: 1 bowl of granola with blueberries and almond milk
1 glass of maple syrup lemonade
1 Thai chicken salad
3 French Fries (yes i know...but I only had 3 and I didn't lie about it)
1 black bean burrito (small)
1/2 baby seedles watermelon

Second Day Down!

Exercise: 9 mile walk with backpack weighted.
Water: 4 Litres
Food: 1 bowl of cereal with almond milk
1 glass lemonade sweetened with Maple Syrup
5 large strawberries
1 handful of blueberries
1 handful of pretzels
1 indian tofu samosa wrap
1 bowl tomato soup with crackers

Quite sore today, sunburned, tired, a few blisters too. But this is the beginning. It will get easier!

Training Begins! First day down...

Weight: 150lbs
Exercise: Walked 8.5 miles (13.5 km)
Water: around 3 litres
Food: Panekoek breakfast wrap (eggs, spinach, peppers, onions and sheep Feta)
1/2 mango
1 cup or so of Greek Salad
Handful of pretzels
bowl of Stovetop (i know i know...not the greatest...but so yummy!)

Training...

And so it begins.

As some of you know, when I attempted this walk some six and a half years ago, I was young, and had no idea what I was getting into. Don't get me wrong...I was passionate and embarking on the journey for all the right reasons, but I did not prepare myself physically at all. Yes, I backpacked for 2 months leading up to the commencement of The Camino, but I had not learned enough about my own body and the toll hiking some 6-8 hours a day every consecutive day for 30 days would have on me. That's another point: I was attempting to finish the walk in 30 days. Now for an experienced hiker, that would be the right amount of time, but for someone like me, it was CRAZY! So, this time around I'm giving myself 40 days, so that I won't have to walk more than 25km per day.

Tomorrow, the training begins. Since I am off work Sundays and Mondays, I am using those days for the bulk of my work. Sundays I will walk with my man for 2-5 hours along the lake. Mondays I will walk the same distance, but carry my backpack and the weight I will be carrying with me on The Camino. During the work week, I will be eating lighter (gotta prepare my stomach too), drinking lots of water, taking the stairs when I am coming UP to my apartment (9floors), and doing some sort of exercise anytime I want to turn the tv on. I will also be brushing up on my Spanish and reading anything and everything I can get my hands on about The Camino.

What to expect in my posts over the next 6 weeks...Every Sunday I will be posting a starting weight for that week. Daily, I will be recording how much water I drink and what I eat, as well as any form of physical activity (besides being on my feet all day at work...lol...). Obviously I hope to be posting more than just the facts...My journey does not begin on September 4th when I begin walking. It begins NOW.

The Preparation Begins!

IT'S OFFICIAL: My flight is booked!!!

The proposed Itinerary:

September 1: be at O'Hare Airport by 1:00pm
4:15pm Departure
September 2: arrive in Amsterdam 7:05am
wander for the morning
3:25pm Departure
4:40pm Arrive in Paris
Late Evening catch a train to Bayonne overnight
September 3: Change trains in Bayonne
Arrive in St. Jean Pied de Port
Obtain my Pilgrim's Passport and get a bed for the night
SEPTEMBER 4: THE CAMINO BEGINS! on to Roncesvalles, Spain


THE GOAL: 40 days to Santiago!

OCTOBER 13: SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA! (plus by sweetie's birthday ;))

October 13-15: Visit Santiago...
October 16: Fly Ryanair to Madrid!!!!!
October 16-21: Visit my cousin Curry and see the sights of Madrid!
October 22: Fly Ryanair to Frankfurt, Germany.
October 23: Take the train to Munich and hook up with my good friend Jen!
October 24-29: Chill in Germany with Jen!
October 30: Take the train to PARIS!
October 31-November 3: See beautiful Paris!!!!
November 4: Back to Chicago...

(no dates are solid except my flight in and out of Paris...we'll see what happens!)


Next posts to come...TRAINING FOR THE CAMINO!

The Journey Began in the year 2000

This first blog includes journal entries from my first attempt at The Camino de Santiago de Compostela. I had become interested in The Camino when I saw Shirley McLean discussing her book on Oprah in 2000. I couldn't get my mind off of it, and finally in 2003 I was able to set foot on The Camino:

May 5, 2003 (Bordeaux, France)
A little nervous about the Camino, but I know I will be fine.

May 7, 2003 (St. Jean Pied de Port, France)
Well, I got here alive! Pretty easy, since all I had to do was follow the huge group of backpackers! I got checked in (pilgrim's passport), and found a room. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get to Roncesvalles tomorrow :) I'm pretty sure it will be well marked with seashells and yellow arrows. I'm planning to leave bright and early @ 6:30am. That way I should get there around 2:30 or so. I am quite amazed at the number of people that are doing this walk! Feeling a little out of place, because I am so young. It seems like people are fascinated that a girl my age would do this on my own. Actually, I'm wondering the same thing! I have a LONG walk tomorrow...and every day after for the next month! I am going to see if I can get some food or something and take a little walk around town before settling in for the night. Hope everything goes ok tomorrow. This is going to be an AMAZING experience!

May 8,2003 (Roncesvalles, Spain)
Oh My!! Well, I started out this morning @ 7. It was NOT an eight hour walk. It was a 9 1/2 hour HIKE! I DID IT! I know now though that I will not be able to do 35km in one day. Today was 27, and it was really tough! I will start walking every day, but might take the bus or taxi part way. I've been meeting some nice people though. I attended the Pilgrim's Blessing Mass tonight, and ate dinner with some nice women from the States. Looking forward to sleep :)

May 9, 2003 (Zubiri, Spain)
Well, always a new story. I started out walking with Pat, Jay and a girl from Austria. We stopped for breakfast and then continued on our trek. Today was better, hiking wise, but after about 14km my stomach started acting up. Everyone tried to help find someway to get me to Zubiri, as I could not walk with a bad stomach. 2 men eventually helped me hitch a ride, and I was there in 10 minutes! I slept for a couple of hours until people started to arrive. I am very impressed with everyone's kind hearts. I hope I will be able to walk the whole way tomorrow.

May 10, 2003 (Pamplona, Spain)
Well, I started out a little late this morning, as I did not feel very good. I walked 5 or 6km with Daniella from Italy, but she had 2 backpacks, and couldn't go as fast as me, so I said goodbye and went on my way. It was a good walk. I could have made it a lot earlier, but that's life. When I arrived here, the Refugio was full, but this Brazilian guy helped me convince the lady to let me sleep on the floor. I had a cold shower, and ate a little, but will read and rest, then get up super early to walk on to Puente La Reina. This is definitely an experience of a lifetime. I am surprised @ how good I feel, considering the amount I've done.

May 11, 2003 (Puente La Reina, Spain)
Today was my day of rest. Daniella and I met these 2 men yesterday (Jose and Angel), and today they drove us to Puente La Reina. From now on though, I am going to get up early and keep a fast pace. Daniella is too slow.

May 12, 2003 (Estella, Spain)
Today was good, but I went too fast. My left ankle is really swollen, and I can feel my right acting up as well. I now have 5 blisters that are being treated with this stuff that's BRIGHT red. I hope they won't get infected. I am fed up with Daniella, but met a nice girl Julie, so that's nice. I am going to walk on my own from now on!!!

May 13, 2003 (Los Arcos, Spain)
What shit! I have tendinitis in my Achilles heel. I couldn't walk today. I walked for a 1/2 an hour, but was in tears from the pain, so I turned back and got a ride here. I saw the doctor, and he told me I should only walk when I have to. I have to massage with this cream, take pills 3 times a day and drink 2 or more litres of water a day. So, we will see how it goes. I have realized the purpose of this trek for myself though. You do what you need to do, as it is your own journey, and don't let anyone strain you to do something you don't feel is right. Everyone has their own Camino, and maybe this is part of mine. I've realized I don't need to feel guilty about not walking when I know walking would hurt me more.